How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on 2018 Honda Accord Sport

hey guys welcome back to the channel today we're going to be doing a rear brake job on the 2018 honda accord sport we're going to be replacing the brake pads only with these italian-made brake pads now i'm just kidding they're actually honda pads but they are made in italy which was very surprising so this is the part number you'll be needing for the rears and i'm going to show you a step-by-step procedure on how it's done so let me pull this wheel off and we'll get started all right so first thing you're gonna need to do with the rear brakes you're gonna need to pull these caps off to get to the seven millimeter allen heads so you just need a screw flathead screwdriver or pry tool i'll just be using this uh pry tool right here little cap pops right out same on the bottom little cap pops right out and i recommend an allen key set like this an allen socket seven millimeters of size if you just have an allen key and i'll show you what that looks like from the back side so this is the back side of what that looks like there you go so that's the back side of what you're looking at that's where the seven millimeter allen head goes this is the back side and that's the other one right down hold on trying to find it right there so there's one there and then there's one right there those are the two now you're just going to pop these out real quick doesn't take a lot of force to come right out it's going to be loosening the pin to release the caliper that one should be all the way up same thing for the second one okay that one's out wanna make sure this one's out that one's all the way out so now you're going to need to remove this metal retainer little pin right here you could usually just do it by pulling down and out with your bare hands either you could use a screwdriver once you do that you can start to remove the caliper okay now as you can see the caliper even though it's loose like the bolts it's actually still stuck because it's pressure on it so you need to go in your car into the on position don't start it and that should take the pressure off of the caliper now i should be able to just pull it right off like so the pads come falling right out here are my pads they're not terrible but they were starting to squeak so i decided to change them here's the backside pad almost to the sensor but the squeaking is just annoying so i'll just change them out they're cheap enough there's a new versus old pad and the rotors look pretty good just going to scuff them up a little bit of sandpaper there's no deep grooves on these so just go over them with some some 120 grit as i spin them i'll just sand them slightly i'll show you how that's done compress the piston just clean up the slides and grease them and good to go so i'm going to get on sanding this and we'll go on from there so that's the basic process of scuffing i'm going to go over it maybe one more time i'll do the back side up there you know from here there's a little window up here you can get in i'm not gonna let you watch the whole process but that's the basic thing i'll show you what it looks like when it's done it's more or less what the rotor should look like see now if you look inside the caliper to compress it which is the next step you're going to need a tool like this but this particular tool works for other cars but it does not work for this because the gap here is just a little bit further than here so i'm going to try using a needle nose plier to turn it if not i'll have to get a better brake tool which i recommend getting but let's see how the needle nose prior method works to compress the piston okay here's just a quick clip of me doing the opposite side now that i got the hang of it just so i could show you how easy it is with the uh basic needle nose and each time i go in i get about a half a turn see trying to hide it from the camera try to show you this the best i can let me come on this side maybe give you a better angle from the top here that works it's all about how you hold the plier and it goes in very easily actually once you know how to do it and then once you do full lock to the right that's it and i'm holding the plier like this so i'm squeezing it i'm pushing and twisting so the piston is all the way pushed back in right now as you can see all the way to the rubber um it kind of debunks the myth that i wanted to uh to test on this video as well that a lot of people are actually removing this electronic e-brake back here this black device and they're winding it back in order to to compress this piston but as you can see the piston is all the way pushed back it's it's unnecessary it's an unnecessary step there's no need to take this thing apart and wind it back i'm going to put everything together and i'm going to show you exactly how it works and that the job will be done correctly like i said always use the proper tool i use a needle nose plier which did work once you get the hang of it it actually went in quite quickly but the ignition has to be on in order to release pressure off of this but you do not have to take it apart like most are doing so it's not necessary i'm going to put this job back together i'm also going to show you how to prepare the pads too before i forget because i'm jumbled in my mind right now show you how to prepare the pads how to clean the little slides and we'll go from there so basically all you want to do is just get a little wire brush like this you want to get in here the best you can try to clear this out it doesn't really fit that well on this one the front wouldn't get an easier get a screwdriver i'll get a little bit of a little brake cleaner in there and then i'll re-grease them that way we don't get any kind of noise which is the reason i'm changing these right now that's good just clean the rotor a little bit okay and i'll show you how to grease the slides not the slides the tracks over here the slides they're good everything is fresh this is a new car it only has 20 000 miles on an old car you can grease these but it's not necessary they they move super easy there's no point so i'll show you where to put the grease next now you could just throw a little bit of grease in here a little bit there don't touch your rotor a little bit there and there on this that way the pad slides smoothly doesn't bind up that's good see i got i got a little bit on the rotor here i'll wipe it off and spray it with just wipe it off with a tissue a napkin whatever you got a little bit of a brake cleaner and good to go no issues so now as far as pad assembly goes the pad with that piece the spring goes in the back and the pad without it goes in the front part they just the pad just going to slide in like this that simple same thing with the back the back one is going to go like that this piece facing upward i'm just going to move this caliper out of my way it's going to go in those rear slides like so and now you're going to feed the caliper right over it as you can see it's going right on because the piston is fully compressed make sure the slides are back everything lines up tighten it up and then what you're going to do is once i tighten this up i'll do it on camera just give me one second you're going to need to put your clip on and then re-engage and engage the uh emergency brake so that it compresses that the piston presses the um brake pad up against the uh so i didn't realize the camera died while i was tightening these bolts up but basically everything went in as you saw i tighten the caliper up i put these caps like a pull up by hand i put them back in place and then i secured this now this caliper is going to be sliding forward and back even though it's locked in place because the piston is still all the way back so there's a big gap so what you do is you go in the car and you're going to pull the emergency brake you'll hear it once you do that the caliper is going to be set now you're going to release the brake the e-brake is no longer engaged you heard it disengage now the caliper is nice and tight it will not slide the brake job is complete you put your wheel back on and you're good to go and that's it that's pretty much the brake job for this car there's not really a lot to it like i said the right tool for the job do not buy one of these tools these are garbage i had this from a long time ago i was hoping it would work and the needle nose plier is more efficient than this piece of junk do not buy it garbage but i really get frustrated when tools aren't that good but yeah you could use a needle nose plier i wouldn't recommend it get the proper tool you can get them on amazon or ebay for about like 25 22 to 25 bucks if you get them there harbor freight sells a kit for about 50 or so which is it's the same kit they're all rebranded different names i wouldn't spend the extra money just order it from amazon or whatever but yeah it's that simple you don't have to take this whole piece apart back here and wind back the e-brake to compress the piston as you saw i did it by hand with the needle nose plier it went right back in so it's really not a complicated job i feel like a lot of people try to complicate things on these cars so that they could either get the business or they make it sound like they're amazing at doing work on cars but this is plain and simple easy job anybody can do it if you just pay attention to what you're doing so guys i hope this was of some help i hope i cleared up some of the mystery on a rear brake job because i didn't know i didn't know what i was in store for until i started it myself so it actually answered my questions as well so i hope i help answer your questions so guys please like comment subscribe i'll see you next more content coming thanks for watching take care