How to Remove and Replace Spark Plugs on Toyota Corolla (1.8L)

In this video, I'm going to show you how to remove and replace a spark plug on a Toyota Corolla with a 1.8 L located in the cylinder head. [Music] So, take your engine cover off. And it's actually held in by plastic pins that go into rubber grommets. So, you just give it a good pull up and then pull it away. So, you can see the negative cable in this has a different terminal end. The factory one would be a 10 mm. It actually would probably look a lot like the positive. It's a 10 mm socket or wrench. And this is aftermarket, so it's like they call it a universal. And usually it's a/2 in or 13 mm. And I've got a 13 here. And I'm going to loosen that negative nut on the terminal end. Now, you can take a screwdriver and spread that just a little bit. It's usually a flathead screwdriver. You just want to open it up just by doing that. See how easy that went? Now you can pull it right off. Set it aside. So grab the clip. That's the harness that attaches to the ignition coil. You'll see right here there's a little clip. They're all the same on all four. So you push on that and lift up. Just squeeze. And if you cannot get it, little flat screwdriver. Bring it right in there and twist that up a little. Don't break it. There it is. Set it aside. 10 mm socket or wrench and break that bolt free. Just take it all the way out and then grab that ignition coil and you're just going to twist it and lift up. So the socket is a 9/16 and you're going to guide that in. Let it hit that spark plug. And counter clockwise, you're going to turn that out back that socket. Once you feel like it's loose enough, I like to do it by hand so that way I can feel it. And a spark plug socket is really what you want because it has that rubber boot in there. So it holds onto that sock, the spark plug on that ceramic so it doesn't fall back down on the cylinder and you can get it right out. It's long threads on these two. There we go. There's your old spark plug. So now before you put your new spark plug in, I like to take all the spark plugs and line them up together. So see that electrode is facing you or at an angle. And when you line them all together, you can check the gap on them. Now, every spark plug is pregapped to the application that it's fit for fitment. So, if you guide them and make sure they're all look like the same gap, you should be all set. Sometimes accidents happen. Say it was dropped, that electrode might be bent down and touching, you cannot use the old round adapters because the minute you slide it in there and slide against the aridium or platinum, you could put a hairline crack in it and then you'll get a misfire and you've damaged the spark plug. you'll never see it with your eye and you'll never know. So, with that being said, let's install it. Always get a spark plug socket that has the rubber in it so that the spark plug doesn't come out. Slide it in by hand. Now, we're never going to use an air tool or electric tool because you could crack that crystal and then you'll have another situation where you have an actual misfire. I'm just going to snug it up and then I will talk it to the factory recommended factory specs. And now it's got a crush washer on it. So that's where the give comes in once it bottoms out. That's where you can torque it right down. So bottomed out. I'm just going to give it an eighth of a turn right there. And I'm going to get my torque wrench. And the torque spec is 15 foot-lbs. There you go. So before you install the coil, you want to take some dialectric grease and put it right on the inside of the boot. Not so much on the electrode. You want that ceramic not to get stuck to the rubber so you can pull it out in the future. Bring it down. Feel it guide itself. You'll feel it go right on top of that spark plug. Push down. Then you get the mounting bolt and install it. I always start it by hand. Make sure it's not cross threaded. Snug it right down. And now we'll get our torque wrench and torque that to spec. 10 mm socket and we're going to torque this to the factory spec, which is 7 ft-lb. Let it bottom out. You don't want to overtighten them because then you actually do damage to the ignition coil. Now we'll take our harness and reconnect it. There's the tab and it the tab on the top is right there. So, slide it over, line it up until it clicks. Now, do the other three spark plugs the same way. Now, we're going to put our engine cover back on. And these are the rubber bushings that I was telling you about. And these are the little pins that they guide on. You have four of them total. Put the oil filler cap hole over and the dipstick hole over and push down. Slide that over. I like to move it all the way down so it's you got a bit of the lead stud sticking up. And this is now a 13 or 1/2 in because someone changed it to a universal end. Like I said, factory would be a 10 mm wrench or socket. Bottom it out. Then I'm going to hold it down here. Probably end up using the box, the open end, and snug it up. Good to go. When only the best will do, demand TRQ. The only company that lets you view before you do. TRQ is committed to offering the highest quality aftermarket auto parts that are engineered with peace of mind. Thanks for using and viewing with TRQ.